River House is an elegant crescent shaped shawl worked in a cascade of lace patterns. It is worked top down with increases along the edges of both the right and wrong side rows to create the broad crescent shape. The pattern is CHARTED ONLY.
Two sizes are available– small and large– approximately 78”/198 cm(95”/ 241 cm) at widest point and 20”/51 cm(25”/63.5 cm) long at center. Small size is shown in the photographs.
This project started out as a way to keep myself organized. I noticed that as I learned more and more ways to make socks on my CSM that I would get confused or over confident and start skipping steps. I made myself some checklists so that I wouldn’t forget all the important steps to making a given type of sock but I kept them open ended so that I could use them over and over again. From those lists came this “cookbook” of recipes that you can use on your sock machine. Think of this as a basic first cookbook – it contains twelve recipes for all of the most common circular sock machine styles with six socks that are “top down” and start with the cuff or hem, and six socks that are “toe up” and start with an extended toe that can be stretched across the cylinder for a seamless design.
There are some things I’m expecting you to know before using these patterns:
I’m assuming that you know how to set up your machine, adjust the tension, and get started on some waste yarn. I refer to hanging a bonnet, but however you start a sock is fine.
I’m assuming that your cylinder is marked with half marks to divide the front and the back of the cylinder evenly and that both the front and the back half have target needles marked for making heels and toes.
I’m assuming that you know how to do things like engage your heel spring and crank in both directions for heels and toes.
Since rehanging heel forks or v-hooks while making a heel or toe depends on your particular set up, there aren’t directions for when to do this. Just move your weights when needed.
Finally, I’m assuming that you have learned how to clean your machine, time your ribber, and adjust your yarn carriage.
If you need help with any of those things, I’ve included some of the best online instructions and videos in the back of this book in the Resources section. Once you have those basic skills, these checklists will help you put them together to make beautiful socks.
Once I started working on these patterns, I realized that there were other things a new cranker (that’s a person who uses a hand crank sock machine) might like to have, like directions for making gauge swatches or a worksheet to easily determine the rounds needed for a given person’s foot or illustrations for techniques I mentioned in the patterns. Suddenly, I had a whole book, not just patterns!
I was introduced to circular sock machines as a hand knitter and knitwear designer, so you will see that I use hand knitting terms within this book. Many of my hand knitting skills transferred easily to working with the sock machine, so I used those conventions as I wrote. The patterns are written in an open ended format so that you can customize the pattern to make the type of sock you want in that style. Every pattern can be used to make anything from an ankle sock to a knee sock and from the most petite foot length to an extra long foot, just fill in the blanks to adjust the leg and foot as needed.
As in hand knitting, there are many ways to accomplish a particular result on a sock machine. I’ve illustrated the methods that work well for me, but please explore other methods and find the ones that are right for you.
One final comment: Part of the process of learning to use a sock machine is making mistakes. These checklist style patterns will help keep you from making mistakes in completing all the steps of the process, but you’ll still have plenty of dropped stitches and other mistakes. The video channels listed in the Resource section show many examples of how to recover from mistakes. When something goes wrong, I usually try to estimate how long it will take me to repair the mistake compared to just scrapping the sock and starting over. My advice is to take on a learner’s mindset. Go slow at first, try new methods now and then, and enjoy the process of figuring things out!
Anatomy of a Sock
Included in this book you will find six different socks that start at the cuff or top hem and six that start at the toe. Each recipe takes you through all the steps of making a particular type of sock. Below is a diagram of the basic parts of a sock, whether you work the sock from the top down to the toe or from the toe up to the top.
There are a few distinctions between parts depending on the type of sock. The very top of the sock is referred to as the cuff when it is ribbed and as a Hung Hem if the edge is folded over and secured on the inside of the sock. A pre-heel is a part of the sock that is worked in smooth stockinette for the back of the heel so that the sock fits better and is more comfortable inside a shoe. If the sock doesn’t have ribbing or mock ribbing on the leg, there will not be a pre-heel.
I’m so excited to announce a new ebook I’ve published called The CSM Cookbook! I’ve been working on this ebook for many months now and I consider it a basic first cookbook of checklist style patterns for the circular sock machine. The ebook contains twelve patterns for all of the most common circular sock machine styles with six socks that are “top down” and start with the cuff or hem, and six socks that are “toe up” and start with an extended toe that can be stretched across the cylinder for a seamless design.
You will also find chapters on making gauge swatches, sizing socks to fit your feet, an illustrated glossary of techniques, information on finishing socks, and a list of additional resources.
Chapter 1 of the ebook is called Swatching for Gauge. I discuss all the things that can affect gauge, give directions for making a gauge swatch, explain how to do the math, and give you a worksheet for recording gauge information.
Chapter 2 is called sock sizing. I discuss the measurements you need to make great fitting socks, explain how to calculate how many rounds you need for each part of your sock, and provide a sock sizing worksheet you can use for each pair of socks you make.
Chapter 3 describes how to work the Quick and Easy Heels and Toes.
Chapter 4 is a ten page illustrated guide to common techniques and terms used in the patterns. If you are still learning about making socks, this chapter along with the resources in Chapter 7 will help you know what to do!
Chapter 5 includes all twelve checklists. These checklists are written in a step by step style so that you’ll never forgot to release your heel spring or stop in the front! You provide your own numbers based on swatching to make the socks the length and height you want. An example is shown below.
Chapter 6 provides links and tips for finishing both toe up and top down socks.
Chapter 7 is a list of additional resources, including video channels, links to manuals, and more!
Happy new year! If you are a regular reader of my blog, I apologize for the long period of silence this fall. This year I started teaching again in a 50% teaching position which seems to take 70% of my time! I have really enjoyed being back in the classroom and I’m lucky to be working at a small school where I get to spend time with both younger and older students!
Now that my routine has settled there, I’m hoping to get back to regular blogging. So let me catch you up on the knit-worthy goings on in the last three months!
I also used my Erlbacher Gearhart hand crank sock machine to make over 50 items for our local Homeless Garden Project Holiday Store that benefits programs for the homeless here in Santa Cruz, CA. I learned even more about what my sock machine can do and I’m planning to release some checklist style patterns for circular sock machines this spring.
I was a participating designer for the Indie Design Gift-A-Long and I helped moderate the Hands forum this year. If you don’t know about this great event on Ravelry, join the group and keep your eyes open in late November 2019 for the beginning of the sale and Gift-A-Long. It’s full of friendly people and starts with a sale of patterns from literally hundreds of independent designers! I managed to complete three great patterns by other indie designers this year: I made several Sheep Tape Measure Covers by Justyna Kacprzak as gifts, I completed the Sunstone hat by Triona Murphy, and I made the Christmas Tree Wrap by handmade by SMINÉ.
I also have FOUR new patterns that came out this fall!
The Simple Colorwork Mitts are an easy to knit pattern in worsted weight yarn that have three choices of colorwork for the tops of the mitts.
Lernen is a fingering weight lace shawl. It’s perfect for beginning lace knitters as it gradually adds new stitches as you work the shawl.
Drachen is a oversized fit drop shoulder sweater that was published in Knitty Magazine. It features a colorwork dragon motif around the hem.
Finally, the Stripes of Many Colors Cowl is the perfect way to use up the mini-skeins from a yarn advent calendar or any collection of mini-skeins or leftover yarn. You’ll need about 135 yards of a contrast color to use throughout the cowl, but I think you will love the results!
This last month’s report will be a little slim as I’ve been working on some secret projects to be revealed in 2019. However, I do have one new pattern release! The Simple Colorwork Mitts are now available on my Ravelry store. These mitts are a great way to use leftover worsted weight yarn and they come in three sizes with three patterns for the palm. If you are a reader of my blog, you can get the pattern for 50% off using the code BLOGREADER at checkout! Enjoy!
A while back, I really got into using the ribber on my CSM and I looked at all the factors that affected how the ribber worked. One thing I did was reduce the amount of weight I was using on my socks and suddenly my socks were coming out in unexpected sizes. It got me thinking about all the factors that affect gauge when making a sock. Gauge included both stitch gauge and row/round gauge. Stitch gauge determines how big around the sock is and is usually measured in stitches per inch/cm. Row gauge (sometimes identified as round gauge) determines how long the sock will be and is usually measure in the number of rounds per inch/cm. Although there are various charts on the internet that claim to list the number of stitches and rows you will need to make a give sized sock on a given cylinder, the only way to really know your gauge is to do a swatch yourself and measure.
Here are all the thing that will affect your gauge:
Cylinder size: All the cylinders for a given sock machine are the same diameter and circumference (different brands of machines will have different diameter cylinders). The difference is in how far apart the slots are cut for the needles. Fewer needles mean the needles are spaced farther apart. More needles will mean they are spaced closer together. The yarn will run a shorter distance from needle to needle when the needles are closer together and a longer distance when they are further apart creating smaller or larger stitches respectively.
Number of needles used in the cylinder: For mock rib or for patterns worked every other needle, removing needles creates short strands of yarn in the space where the needle is missing. These aren’t as long as the path going around a needle, but they are longer than the usual path between side by side needles. Removing needles for mock rib or other patterns will tend to tighten the stitch gauge but may lengthen the row/round gauge.
Tension as set on the cam nut: The position of the cam nut determines how far down the needle pulls the yarn as it creates a stitch and makes the stitches “tighter” or “looser,” affecting both stitch and row/round gauge. The cam nut is the main thing we usually think about when adjusting gauge, but it works in tandem with all the other factors listed here.
Using the ribber: Knit and purl stitches tend to draw in when combined, giving a tighter stitch gauge when measured in a relaxed state. Ribbing does stretch, though, and a stretched ribbed fabric will have the same gauge as a plain knit fabric if all the conditions of making it are otherwise the same.
Amount of weight hanging on the sock: The amount of weight hanging on the sock will affect how large stitches become. Less weight means less pull and less yarn in each stitch. More weight means more yarn can be pulled into each stitch.
Heel spring use: The heel spring puts drag on the yarn, meaning that less yarn can get to each stitch because it’s being pulled taut. That means both stitch and row gauge are generally tighter with the heel spring on.
Yarn used: All fingering weight yarns are not exactly the same. They will be of slightly different diameters which can fill the space between stitches and affect both stitch and row gauge. The amount of nylon in the yarn, the twist or springiness of the yarn, and if you add a thread of lycra to the yarn will all affect the size of the stitches. In addition, different colors of the same yarn may produce slightly different gauges because the dye in the yarn takes up space and can make one color “plumper” than another.
Method for winding yarn: Yarn coming off a ball will have slightly more tension on it than yarn coming off a cone. Whatever method you use to prepare your yarn will add or subtract tension, changing your gauge.
Special patterning: Cables, Fair Isle patterning, and slipped stitches will all change the gauge of a sock. Cables tend to affect stitch gauge more and slipped stitches will change row gauge more.
Resting and washing: The gauge you measure when a sock is fresh off the machine will not be the same as the gauge after the same sock has rested and been washed. When the yarn has been under tension, it is much more stretched. In addition, some yarns will “bloom” after being washed, which also affects gauge. For a true gauge check, the sock should at the very least rest until it has relaxed to it’s “normal” state and should usually be washed to determine how washing changes the yarn.
Knit fabric is stretchy, so there is some range in which a sock will fit comfortably. For consistent results in gauge and sock width and length, all the above conditions should be the same from one sock to the next.
Here’s a great way to become a better teacher: sign up for a class to learn something completely new that is outside of your previous experience.
If you are teaching knitting, you probably have been a knitter for a while and may have forgotten what it was like to learn to knit for the first time. One of the biggest mistakes we can make as teachers is to assume the knowledge we have about our subject is “obvious” and skip over important explanations and steps in our teaching.
So go take a class outside your comfort zone. Experience being a beginner taking a class from a subject matter expert. Notice what the instructor makes easier by adding details for the novice and/or notice where the instructor makes assumptions about what you should know that you don’t know. Where does the instructor go too quickly for the novice? When does the instructor ask questions to assess student understanding and how do they tailor their instruction due to the responses?
Then the next time you teach a class to beginners or you teach an unusual technique, put yourself in the place of the beginners. Think about what assumptions you are making about your learners and how you can confirm those assumptions are correct and what you can do if they are not. What knitting moves need slowed down so the novice can follow them? What details might you need to mention that the novice might not know?
Every time you teach a class, remember to put yourself in that beginner’s mindset. Your students will thank you! If you are using my teaching packs, you’ll find a list of common points of confusion for each lesson and how to handle it!
So first I visited Kinokuniya, the Japanese bookstore in San Jose. I’ve browsed Japanese knitting books there in the past, but perhaps because it is summer, they didn’t have much of a selection this time. Then I remembered that I had heard about an Etsy shop that carries all kinds of Japanese craft books and magazines. I searched through literally hundreds of books and magazines and narrowed it down to six that I ordered.
The books and magazines have arrived and now I’m puzzling through the construction details for a few favorite patterns. I thought I’d share the resources that I’ve been using to help me.
In addition to the front material in Japanese Knitting Patterns, Twig and Horn have a great post on how to read Japanese knitting patterns. One of the most important things it explains is how to read the decrease information for armholes and necklines.
It feels like I had a slow knitting month but I finished one major project. My On a Whim CustomFit pullover is finished! I modified the pattern slightly to have longer ribbing at the cuffs and hem. It’s way to warm for this sweater right now, but I look forward to wearing it this winter.
I started two new sweaters. Spanish Bay is another CustomFit sweater. I worked the ribbing by hand and did the stockinette portions on my LK-150 flatbed knitting machine. The pieces are assembled and I’m adding the lace border now. I’m doing a fun trick for the lace. The first three odd rows are yo, k2tog and the next three odd rows are ssk, yo. It’s over 200 stitches so that over 100 ssks to work. On the even (wrong side row) before the first yo, ssk row, I wrapped my yarn for the purls in the opposite direction. That changed my stitch mount so that all the stitches are “pre-slipped” on the right side so I just have to work them through the back loops. It was a bit of a trick to purl the “wrong” way for my usual knitting style, but it’s making things go much quicker on the right side rows.
My second sweater is a poncho/cardigan combo from Japanese Knitting (Pattern F). The yarn I’m using for this is Knit Picks Swish DK, which I think should be called “Squish” because it is sooo soft and squishy. I’m just getting started on this and it is my new endless stockinette pattern for social knitting.
I played a bit with working a lace pattern on my CSM and made a little cozy for a mason jar. I have to play with this a bit more and see if this would be a good use for leftover yarn from making socks.
In knitting I can’t show yet, I spent quite a bit of time working on swatches and samples for third party submissions. More info on that if/when they are accepted!
I’m so excited to announce a new pattern release! The Seetang Cowl is a cozy and richly-textured cowl that uses a semi-solid and variegated yarn to create undulating textured stripes in a slipped stitch pattern. Only one yarn is used per round in this rhythmic, easy-to-knit pattern and both written and charted instructions are provided.
I loved seeing all the variations my test knitters created! They will be adding their projects over the next few days so you can see everything from subtle to bold color variations for this pattern! Most test knitters completed this project in just a couple of days, so you know it will make a great last minute gift.
If you are a blog reader, please use the code SUMMER in Ravelry to receive 20% off this pattern through the end of July 2018.